If you read yesterday’s post, you’ll recall that the dish I was trying to replicate Wednesday night was a memorable appetizer I consumed at a dinner theater…place (what’s the proper term for that, anyway?) in Claremont. It was so good that I was still fantasizing about it three years after I initially consumed it. It was so good that I decided to figure out the recipe on my own at home. There aren’t many dishes I’ve consumed in my life that have inspired such culinary boldness on my part.
It got me thinking. In the grand scheme of things, those steak fries from Claremont probably aren’t REALLY as good as I thought they were three years ago. In fact, they might not even make the list of the ten best appetizers I’ve had since I moved to Los Angeles. If I had to make a list, what WOULD the ten best appetizers I’ve had in LA be?
What a perfect topic for a Friday Top Ten list!
The Top Ten Appetizers In Los Angeles
10. Death By Duck (Beer Belly) – I’ve only been to Beer Belly but a few times since it opened, but I’m definitely a fan. It’s not “dude food” parading as haute cuisine like Black Hogg is. For me, it’s first-and-foremost a great place to drink craft beers without having to travel too far. Once I’ve got a cold one (be it from their rotating tap list or the impressive “cellar” list, THEN I start to think about the menu and some of the options it provides. And, of course, my eyes immediately drift towards “Death By Duck,” which is a pile of duck fat fries with duck skin cracklins and duck confit. Technically the menu at Beer Belly isn’t broken down into appetizers and main courses, but considering there’s a distinct price difference between items like fries and items like the Chipotle & Beer Braised Short Rib, I think one can easily make a distinction between sides/starters and traditional plates.
09. Marrow Bone, Chimichurri, Caramelized Onions (Animal) – I love bone marrow in almost every incarnation I’ve consumed. Animal is probably the second best iteration I’ve ever consumed (better than Cut, for sure, and better than Lazy Ox Canteen, but nowhere near as hedonistically yummy as the marrow topped with Sturgeon caviar at Au Pied Du Cochon in Montreal). Still, that didn’t stop Maryn from trying desperately to scrape more marrow from the bone even after our server arrived to clear the plate.
08. Jicama Fresh Rolls (Viet Noodle Bar) – Yeah, I know…but I’ve been eating these for so long there probably isn’t another dish in LA that I’ve consumed more times than these. I’ve had the fresh rolls more times than I’ve had In-N-Out. They’re literally the perfect appetizer. The combination of jicama, carrot, tofu, basil and shallot seems so simple, but it’s always so fresh and tasty. The dipping sauce couldn’t be better. Unless, of course, you’re a fucking GENIUS like I am, and you draw a Sriracha pentagram in your sauce. That provides the absolute perfect amount of kick to launch these things into the next stratosphere of deliciousness.
07. Broccoli, Soy, Chillies & Vinegar (The Gorbals) – Everybody goes apeshit for the bacon-wrapped matzoh balls, but growing up Jewish — and an insanely picky eater — means I’ve eaten more matzoh balls than you can imagine. And, honestly, I was completely underwhelmed by what I was served at The Gorbals. Conversely, the broccoli — which we ordered on a whim because we wanted something spicy — was incredible. It’s the only thing I ate that night (other than the confit tongue) that I remember vividly, and it was the spicy, bitter broccoli that turned out to be the surprise star of the meal.
06. Beef Tartare (Red Medicine) – The Beef Tartare (water lettuce, water chestnut, nuoc leo, chlorophyll, peanut) at Red Medicine was the perfect way to start a very, very impressive meal. A rather large serving of raw beef arrives on a beautifully composed plate, the protein hidden under a wall of greens and powdered peanut. The beef had the look and texture of simple minced/ground beef but the depth of flavors added by the spicy herbs were shocking in the best possible way.
05. Ceviche Del Dia (Mo-Chica) – The location on Grand Ave. downtown will forever be one of my favorite places to dine in all of LA. Sadly it’s moved, and I’ve heard mixed reviews of the new location on 7th Street. Even so, I couldn’t go to Mo-Chica (and I ate there at least a dozen times between 2009 and 2012) without getting the ceviche of the day. The fresh raw fish used as the main ingredient changed daily (and sometimes even included shellfish, like blue crab), but my favorite version was the red snapper. It was glorious. The Causa Del Dia was always good as well, but the ceviche was consistently amazing. Hopefully at the new Mo-Chica it has remained a must-eat dish.
04. Fried Oyster (Allumette) – My second bite ever at Allumette was the Fried Oyster (Kimchi Ranch Dressing, Asian Pear Mignonette, Sea Spinach). The oyster was tiny, but fried to a perfect crispiness while remaining tender inside. As a fan of all things hot and spicy, the kimchi ranch was a delightful surprise. And by that I mean it was spicy enough to please my palate, though I imagine some people who don’t like such intense heat will consider it too hot.
03. Pork Belly Sopes (Red O) – I’m as surprised as anybody that when people ask me my favorite restaurant in LA I still cite Red O as being one of my most memorable meals. And I’ve been really outspoken about my being DONE with the whole pork belly thing, because…isn’t it getting out of hand at this point? Yeah, I get it, it tastes awesome. But it’s getting old! That said, those sopes at Red O are unbelievable. The salsa negra dressing was subtle (just drizzled onto the plate beneath the sopes) but when you dragged the corn masa through them they really added a nice smokiness to the fattiness of the pork belly. Just thinking about it makes me want to return.
02. Brussels Sprouts with Kimchi (Jar) – The last two times I ate here it was a daily appetizer special, but now it appears to be on the menu as a side dish. Either way, you’re going to want an order of these during your meal. I can also vouch for the Crab Deviled Eggs, which are a solid choice if these are only available as a side dish. Oh man. I’ve never had better Brussels Sprouts than at Jar. They’re de-leaved and mixed with the kimchi and served just a bit warm, and the texture and flavor of this combination is incredible. How often do you see lazy chefs roasting their Sprouts with olive oil, bacon and garlic to make ’em edible for the masses? Not only is what chef Tracht does with her Sprouts inventive and ingenious, it TASTES BETTER. And isn’t that the most important aspect of any dish!?
01. Grilled Octopus (Osteria Mozza) – Served with potatoes, celery and lemon, this is the single best octopus I’ve ever tasted anywhere, period. It was so much more tender and flavorful than any iteration I’ve consumed I actually started to contemplate whether or not I’ve actually eaten octopus before. I was, like, going through a weird existential crisis at the table and I couldn’t say anything to my date because she would’ve been completely turned off by the, “I don’t know if I’ve ever really LIVED before” trip I was on while sharing this dish. I’m already looking forward to the next time I can go to Mozza just so I can have it again. Mandatory. Necessary. Choose your adjective. It’s required you order it next time you dine here. Or incur my wrath. It’s your choice.
Felt – Sapphire Mansions [MP3]
