Is this a dream I am moving in? The soaring pines and the big sky are passing me by. Eight hours through Washington, Idaho and Montana. The freeway now says East. How crushing. The West, with its mild weather and kind, beautiful souls will surely be missed. I hope to return very soon for an extended period of time.
This morning in Tacoma was brief. Rise and shine, pack your things, leave a thank you note, be on your way. Skirting through Seattle brought back memories of my previous trip there in 2002. My cousin Debbie was married there, and I remember spending my time in awe of the city. It is–far and away– the most beautiful major city in the country. I remember our hotel overlooking the Puget Sound, Pike Street Market, Mt. Rainier looming in the distance, the Space Needle, Paul Allen’s “meh” attempt at recreating the Rock ‘N Roll Hall of Fame, two huge sports stadiums… And it’s pretty easy to move through the city.
So I headed straight for Spokane with no stops. The sky was blue and the pines reached for the heavens. When I reached central Washington, I had to stop at the Wanapum Vista Overlook to see the Wild Horses Monument. I stood marveling the view (ONE , TWO , THREE). I attempted to hike the mountain but ceased due to safety concerns maybe thirty feet from the summit. I should have packed hiking boots. Sandals just don’t provide steady support while scaling rock walls. Nevertheless, the view from my vantage point was stunning. You can barely see my car in the lot way down there.
The road to Spokane eventually turned from lush and green to arid and dry, with little to no vegetation. Dust storms formed fervently along the road. I stopped in Spokane for a cookie and gas, and then headed for the Idaho panhandle. Like Eastern Washington, Idaho alternated between profuse and barren. Consistently panoramic.
IDAHO: ONE , TWO , THREE , FOUR , FIVE , SIX
I stopped in a town called Kellogg.
Contest #2 is for a nice, big sticker (4″x6″) of the state of Idaho, with the state flag fit between the borders. Just like the first contest (remember, entries are due by Tuesday at 11:59pm), all you have to do is send an e-mail me (evanhlevine@gmail.com) with your name, mailing address and reason why you deserve this sticker and I’ll send it out to the best response. Entries for contest #2 are due Thursday 8/11/05.
Montana approached, and I suddenly realized I was back in mountain standard time. I lost an hour. At high speeds, I cruised through hills and watched the big sky change from blue to gray. An acrid smell permeated the car. I noticed smoke rising from a mountainside up ahead. Little plumes of smoke couldn’t have been responsible for this thick, smoky aroma. When I rounded a bend, I witnessed a huge wildfire engulfing the entire back side of the mountain. I literally watched trees crack, slip and tumble down toward the basin. Flames licked the air and overtook all that was in their path. Helicopters buzzed by overhead, surveying the damage. I hoped to see folks out trying to stop the damage from spreading, but the area was wholly deserted. I guess they have to let the fire run its course before attempting to quell a more manageable sized blaze. Let nature take its course, I suppose.
In Missoula, I checked into my hotel and went outside to move my car. As I made my way to the vehicle, a dirty looking guy sitting outside at McDonald’s flagged me down with a peace sign. I crossed the street and asked what was up. He had cigarette burns on his arms and tattoos along his forearms. He asked if I could spare some change for a hungry dude backpacking from Georgia. I searched my pockets for some quarters and handed two to him. He noticed my license plate and asked what I was doing in Montana. I told him I’m a writer, and he greeted my response with great enthusiasm. He introduced himself as Arthur.
“I was just talking to this girl about how I need to get my shit together and make a movie.”
“Why’s that?” I asked.
“Because fucking, no one reads anymore!”
“I guess that’s true.”
“I just want to grab people sometimes and say, ‘This is a book. Here’s what you do with it’! It’s so great that you’re a writer. I used to write a lot of poetry. Have you been up to Glacier yet?”
“No, I haven’t. I just came from Seattle/Tacoma this morning.”
“Oh wow, you have to check it out, man. It’s truly God’s country. It’s the most beautiful place I’ve seen yet. It’s God’s country.”
I asked Arthur what brought him here from Georgia. He said he was tired of the south and he was looking for somewhere more peaceful to live. I asked what he thought of Missoula. He said it was beautiful, but not liberal enough. He said he thought about moving to Washington, too, but it was also not liberal enough for him. I told him Seattle was a pretty progressive place, and he agreed that the state was shifting a little to the blue side. I mentioned having spent a night in Eugene, and he told me a story about how he’d stayed there for a while on a previous trip. We agreed that Eugene was definitely more of the kind of vibe where he could exist in peace. We talked about politics for a few more minutes and then I gave him a few more quarters to get a burger. I went on my way.
I wasn’t too hungry, so I drove through Missoula and ended up at a Grill and Casino on the far end of town by the city limits. I sat at the bar and ordered Idaho potato skins and a 25 oz. mug of Moose Drool. The appetizer was far too big and I didn’t finish it, but I devoured the drink and ordered another, smaller glass. It’s been that kind of day.
xo,
ehl
